Last month at the Mountlake Terrace High School, Nicole Mina Askarian — the Native American education specialist for the Edmonds School District — hosted an inspiring day of education and celebration at the school district’s 2024 Native American, Native Alaskan and Indigenous Heritage Celebration Day. One of the reasons that I attended is that the event featured Chef Jason Vickers, founder of Natoncks Metsu (“Feeding My Cousins”). Chef Vickers shared his insights about traditional Indigenous foods and the importance of maintaining Indigenous Food Sovereignty for the health and cultural preservation of Indigenous communities. He led a powerful discussion about the resurgence of interest in traditional Indigenous ways in food, medicine, ceremonies and daily living.

A colleague of Vickers is Chef Sean Sherman (from the Oglala Lakota Pine Ridge Reservation in South Dakota), who operates a restaurant in Minneapolis, Minnesota featuring Indigenous foods. Like Vickers, he is a leading advocate for Indigenous food sovereignty, focusing on revitalizing and promoting traditional Native foods. He states:

“Indigenous foodways are attainable models of sustainability, offering a proud connection to the land. They also provide a path to food sovereignty, enshrining the right for Native peoples to define themselves on their own terms. But even if those arguments aren’t acknowledged by those who have ignored Indigenous needs for so long, Native restaurants could begin to rewrite the reputation of ‘flyover country.’ The heartland could become a more desirable tourist destination, not just for its natural beauty, but for its cultural and culinary heritage. With every plate of smoked venison, heirloom hominy, or stewed rabbit, we get a little closer.” (Eater, October, 2024)

Chef Vickers is trying to bring a similar vision to the Pacific Northwest by sharing his food traditions through catering, meal prep, special events and gift boxes.

Vickers was born into a Hassanamisco Band, Nipmuc Nation (Freshwater People) family in Worcester, Massachusetts but he actually grew up in the Pacific Northwest. He is a self-trained chef and has worked with some of the top chefs in our area. In 2023, he started Natoncks Metsu as a catering, meal prep and special events business that features local ingredients and First Nations foodways. As much as possible, Vickers forages many of his ingredients locally and relies on tribal farmers, fishermen and growers. For the holiday season, he has created innovative gift boxes featuring Elderberry Wellness Tonic, Woodland Spice Blend, Pepita Brittle, Wild Rice Crackers, Elderberry Truffles, Soda Syrups (rosemary, mint and lemon; hibiscus and lime; cedar and tangerine), Seasoned Canned Salmon, Rosehip Apple Butter and Blue Corn Sable Cookies. What a fabulous way to celebrate the bounty of our region during the holidays.

Vickers served this delicious dish along with cornbread at the Indigenous Heritage Celebration and has generously shared the recipe so that our readers can make it at home.

3 Sisters Stew with Lacinato Kale and Wild Rice By Chef Jason Vickers

Ingredients
1 can kidney beans, rinsed
2 cups frozen sweet corn, thawed
½ pound butternut squash, cubed
½ cup wild rice
1 medium bunch lacinato kale, Cut across the grain into 1-inch-wide strips
2 tablespoons olive oil
4 stems thyme, stripped and minced
2 stems rosemary, stripped and minced
Salt and pepper

Instructions
Place rice in a medium pot on the stove with 1 cup water. Cook for 40 minutes or until all water is absorbed into rice.

Roast butternut squash (seasoned with salt and pepper) for 20 minutes at 350 degrees.

Combine all elements in a medium bowl and season with the salt, pepper and herbs.

Place in a covered roasting pan in a 350 degree oven for 35 minutes.

Remove from the oven and stir, returning to the oven uncovered for another six minutes.

Remove from the heat and serve.

— By Deborah Binder

Deborah Binder lives in Edmonds with her family. She loves to cook from scratch using produce from the gardens she created and maintains with her husband. She attended culinary school on the East Coast and focused on desserts, pastries and bread. She’s worked for restaurants and caterers in the front and back of the house (kitchen) on both coasts. Her current interest in food is learning to eat for health and wellness, while at the same time enjoying the pleasures of the table. Deborah loves experimenting and developing new recipes. As Julia Child once said, “Everything in moderation including butter.” Deborah can be contacted at jaideborah@yahoo.com.