Cruise Passenger was lucky enough to sit down with Aesha Scott, the beloved ‘Chief Stew‘ on the hit television show Below Deck, to talk to her about her amazing trip to Hong Kong.
Born and raised in New Zealand, she got hooked on the water and yacht life after starting out her career as a deckhand on a small boat. She then went on to work as a stewardess on a much larger boat, and has now lived and breathed the yachting life for the last five years.
Her career has taken her to all corners of the globe and recently, she explored the vibrant city of Hong Kong to discover the natural beauty of the island, the intoxicating melting pot of food and explore the city’s colourful harbour. Here’s what she had to say about her time in Hong Kong.
As someone who has spent a lot of time on the water, what was it like swapping the Superyacht life for a city like Hong Kong?
Superyachting is an industry where you are closely working with the nature around you, trying to act in symbiosis with it, and what I loved about Hong Kong is that the area does the exact same thing. Everything is built right on the water line, so a beautiful ferry ride is never far away, and behind it, the trees come right down the steep hills and hug the buildings so snugly. With the design of building up and not out, it allows the area to be fully encompassed by nature.
What’s the biggest, most unexpected difference between the vibe of Hong Kong and a place like Sydney or Melbourne?
For me it was the sprawl, or lack thereof it. Sydney and Melbourne, like most Western cities, have huge urban sprawl, giant suburbs one after the other. Hong Kong has built up instead of out, so all of the attractions are more concentrated, and with amazing public transport like the MTR, Hong Kong railway system, nothing is very far away.
Which side of the city’s personality surprised you the most during this itinerary?
I think for me, it wasn’t a certain side I preferred but rather the blend that made it so magic. Being in a hugely populated foreign city, the Western influence was definitely comforting. Walk along the waterfront almost feels like you’re walking along Darling Harbour. However, for those wanting to embrace the experience, you have plenty of eateries with more typical local cuisine, markets that embrace long-established styles of shopping and cooking, day trips to traditional villages, and friendly locals who have lived there for generations who are only too happy to share their history with you. I was surprised at how seamlessly these two worlds integrate, and celebrate each other rather than resisting the blend.
If there is one experience in Hong Kong that you will tell your friends about, what is it and why?
My favourite experience was visiting Tai O fishing village. The village is on the island of Lantau, and we travelled there by coach after we got to the top of Ngong Ping Village. The Tai O fishing village is a traditional village, with a large number of stilt houses built over the water. We were able to take a boat down stream through the houses, explore inside one of them, and then wander through the back streets observing their quiet way of living. It was fascinating to see! After that, you can wander the main village streets and look through their cute shops, and buy yourself a traditional Tai O egg waffle or a woven bamboo fisherman’s hat.
What was the biggest surprise about your time in Hong Kong?
The biggest surprise for me was how easy it was to get around despite the huge population. The MTR was very easy to use and we never waited for more than two minutes to hop on one (that sounds made up, but it isn’t). If you don’t want to take the MTR there are endless easy options for ferry’s, and taxis are very reasonably priced too (make sure you have cash for these).
Aesha’s pick of activities in Hong Kong
Can you describe what it’s like seeing skyscrapers at “impossible angles” at The Peak?
The Peak Tram was absolutely incredible!!! We chose to stand instead of sit, and you really feel the full effect of how steep it is when you are at a 25.7 degree angle to the floor. Looking around us, we were again reminded at how well this city scape gives way to the lush bush all around. Seeing the skyscrapers from this point of view was brilliant, you can finally get above it all and really take in the beautiful city scape.
What did you love the most about exploring Cheung Chau island?
We loved going to Cheung Chau Island and getting a glimpse into slower and more traditional ways of life. We particularly enjoyed the Pak Tai Temple and all of the symbolism involved in its design. The fishermen pray to Pak Tai, a sea divinity, for prosperity and protection. This temple is also the site for the Buns festival, held on the fourth lunar month each year, where participants scamper to the top of a huge tower of Lucky Buns to try to grab the top one first, giving them good luck for the rest of the year.
Hong Kong is rich with historical sights – what would you recommend?
The Crystal+ Cabin from Ngong Ping Cable Car was definitely worth it!! To travel up over those beautiful big hills with glass all around us, including underfoot, the view was just spectacular! A real highlight of our trip. Looking down, you could see endless shades of green in the treetops, meandering streams and beautiful waterfalls. All around you could see the topography of hills, the groupings of settlements in the distance, and my favourite, a full view of the longest sea crossing and the longest open-sea fixed link in the world, the Hong Kong-Zhuhai-Macau bridge. These historical sites reminded us that while Hong Kong is Westernised, they still maintain a very rich local culture and celebrate their ancient history.
What’s your top tip for someone doing a self-guided exploration of Old Town Central?
Colours, smells, people everywhere. Rather than follow a route, we just let ourselves wander wherever we were drawn, and we managed to stumble upon some very cool spots. We walked through some old jail cells
at Tai Kwun, which is the former Victoria Prison, followed by some shopping along Hollywood Road, and lots of side excursions up and down steep cobblestoned streets with fun stalls dotted along them.
Hong Kong is known for wonderful shopping. Did you manage to see the fashion and electronics stores and where was best to browse?
We did! There are endless shopping options in Hong Kong. For more familiar chains and Western apparel, I liked Harbour City, a mall that runs all the way along the waterfront on one side of Tsim Sha Tsui. For local trinkets and cheap electronics like phone cables and adaptors, the street markets in Sham Shui Po were fantastic.
The food and dining experiences of Hong Kong
Which meal was your personal favourite, and what dish would you recommend a first-time visitor must try?
My favourite was the meal at Madame Fu, although that’s hard to fully decide because Sichuan and everywhere we ate was absolutely extraordinary! The dim sum variety at Madame Fu was excellent and flowed perfectly. There was a wide variety of textures and flavours, from the more gelatinous steamed dumplings, to the crispy chicken with black truffle and chive sauce. My favourite morsel was the Char Siu Puff, so delicious!! Inside is an exquisite BBQ pork filling (like a steamed pork bun filling), but it is encased in a beautiful, rich, sweet flakey pastry instead of a bun. I was in heaven!!
Tell us about the street food on Cheung Chau island – what was that experience like?
The street food was a party for the senses, the smells, the colours, the visual displays all dancing towards you. We did try the fresh mango mochi, I’d never had mochi with fresh fruit in it before rather than a flavoured paste. The texture change from fresh mango to sticky glutinous rice flour was delicious. We also tried “Yau Char Kwai” or Chinese Fried Dough Sticks a typical local breakfast item which is deep fried doughnut strips lightly coated in salt or sugar. It tasted very similar to ‘fry bread’ that we have in New Zealand. Needless to say it was a big hit!
Did you find any challenges with the more authentic Hong Kong food experiences?
I can be a bit squeamish with more authentic foods, especially after participating in The Amazing Race with the food challenges, but luckily this foodie tour had great options for all levels of bravery. The first two stops had very Western influenced food, with a pineapple bun (a white bun with a sugary coating) dipped in milk tea, and a meat and cheese toastie. The rest of the stops had more Cantonese, locally influenced fare, and you could dip your toe in as far as you wanted. For example, we stopped at a family run dumpling restaurant, where we could watch the sweet older woman sit and expertly fill and fold dumplings on a back table. Scott opted for the most popular shrimp and roe dumplings in fish broth, whereas I opted for the fried pork and chive dumplings. We both loved our dishes!
What were your thoughts on the local seafood scene?
The local seafood scene is alive and thriving. Being right on the water, you can’t get fresher than what you are being served at these waterfront restaurants. Hing Lok was a fabulous experience. Scott, being a seafood lover, dived into the mantis shrimp fried with garlic and fresh calamari, whereas I went for the sweet and sour chicken and fried noodles. Divine, and something for everyone!
How to relax in Hong Kong according to Aesha
After a busy day exploring, what was your favourite after-dark experience?
My favourite after dark experience was trying out the myriad cocktail options scattered around the city. Since the city is filled with skyscrapers, the bars all put so much effort into decorating their space to make them stand out amongst the crowd.
What was your favourite place in Hong Kong for a celebratory or romantic evening?
Popinjays was incredible and a real highlight for us! Definitely more for your romantic evening, you can have quiet, quality conversation while nestled into the bosom of the city, buildings towering over you from all around with their twinkling lights. It felt very special, like being in another world.
You also visited Botanical Garden for gin and tonics. How was this “lush space” a contrast to the rest of the bustling city?
Botanical Garden was just gorgeous. Set in a heritage building, it feels like you are being transported back in time, sipping gin and tonics. Although it is set right in the centre of all the activity, the moment you walk into the space it feels quiet, calm and serene. The service was excellent, and the desserts were scrumptious!
Which of the evening attractions offered the best, most memorable view of Hong Kong at night?
All of these offered spectacular views, we were blown away!! For a view from above, La Vache at the Peak was the winner. Being so high and set back from the city, you could see it in its entirety spread out before you. For a beautiful city scape, Aqua Luna was our favourite. I may be biased as a yachty, but you can’t beat that sea breeze, a good vino and the gentle rocking of the boat while soaking in an amazing panorama.
What advice would you give to Australians considering travelling to Hong Kong?
First of all, do it! It will be an unforgettable experience. Second, make sure you get out of the city areas. While the city areas are a must see, and part of the experience, you get a more full overview of the culture and history if you take the time to go and visit the surrounding villages. You realise truly how unique Hong Kong is!
