HENRY ~ 新廚·新菜式

們一家宦是這裡的粉絲,經歷過幾任大廚,都仍然覺得這裡是全香港最好的扒房之一(唔止得過講字,我有在影片中介紹過這裡的)。得知這裡換上新主廚,延至今天才來一試。

對於店子的新廚Jorge Vera Gutiérrez 不陌生,因為早前在Bay Fair Social已吃過他的菜式,有一定的信心。據悉在他接掌了這裡以後,除了菜式換上了新的處理方法,雞尾酒吧也全換上新的選擇。席上朋友紛紛試了當中的幾款。可惜剛病癒,唯有只喝水,下次再嚐。餐前麵包也換上了新的款式,是牛油牛奶小圓包。依舊是每天當店烘焙,溫暖軟熟,簡單的配上鹽味牛油,就是好吃。

點了5款前菜,當中三道是冷盤。生牛肉他他用上的是USDA Prime安格斯黑牛,手刴而刻意的刴得不太碎。保留了爽滑的口感。加入醬油漬蛋黃的醃青瓜調味,上面舖上了份量不少的魚籽醬,前者的豐腴加上一點點的鹹鮮香味,是最適合的調味。盛在薯片上同吃,仍然是這裡必吃的一道前菜。

之前也吃過Chef JorgeScallop Crudo,到了這裡就是「加強版」。加入了砌成小截又烤得微焦的粟米,其甜香跟蕃茄的微酸及墨西哥辣椒的辣勁平衡得不錯。跟帶子刺身薄片同吃,開胃。凱撒沙律是在席前製作的,可觀性跟以前席前製作的生牛肉他他差不多。不過論吸引度,爽脆的羅馬生菜怎算也不及同場出現的煙豬腩肉。

暖前菜方面,現在的Maryland Crab Cake是回復平時吃到蟹餅的樣子(不再是球型),但蟹肉仍然是澎湃的。炸雞驟眼看真的是毫不吸引,但原來炸得外脆內嫩以外,帶辣的味道令其意想不到的好吃。大廚指示的吃法是包在牛油生菜葉內再加入醃瓜及辣沙律醬,好吃。

知道寬麵Pappardelle)是店子自家製的,也有興趣一試。帶點厚度的麵條,口感爽滑而帶嚼勁,蛋香及麵粉香味是濃郁的。配料選上了牛肋肉,鬆化而肉味濃郁。一碟牛肋肉寬麵再加一杯紅酒,就是水準很不錯的簡單晚餐。

吃了一輪前菜,終於到了主菜環節:牛扒是也。我們席上7人,就挑了1.1千克的Cowboy Ribeye。帶骨的肉眼是經過30天的風乾陳化再以炭火燒烤,上來是香味撲鼻。先吃靠中間部份,是日的肉眼油脂成份不算豐富,但因為經過風乾陳化的過程,肉質是鬆軟的。

要了medium rare,火候也是恰到好處的。再吃一件end cut,炭烤香味濃郁加上油脂甘香,人間美味。伴菜方面,也是來了六款。不過胃納都留給牛扒去了,只吃了一點Dirty Rice,也不錯。

來到甜點環節,一來又是試勻四款。Profiterole夾上的是威士忌味道的雪糕,跟淋上濃郁的朱古力醬配合得不錯。士多啤梨新地份量不少,其實單吃這個已飽了七成。紐約芝士蛋糕是席前處理的,朋友們非常欣賞,吃得要再逅加多一份。

新廚新菜式,效果也不錯。吃過Cowboy Chop,也想一併試試另外兩款「To Share」的牛扒。看來要找一天再找多幾位牛魔王來一走試。


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