號外:東京研習(法國菜)~ 我在六本木的4小時 La Paix(La Paix(ラペ) 東京都中央区日本橋室町1-9-4 井上第3ビル B1F 050-3196-2390)


原本打算乘子彈車從北海道一直去到九州,但因為関西打風,被迫臨時轉陣,在東京捨新幹線轉內陸機南下。

忽然在這裡有4小時,你會做什麼?在我而言是沒懸念,當然打開筆記本看看有那間想試的餐廳,有位就即去吃。就是這個簡單的原因,這個下午我來到這裡。

店子在日本橋,餐廳在地庫,門外放了一個很大的感嘆號,離遠已經可以認到。大廚松本一平,関西和歌山人士。烹飪學校修業後在東京一間法國菜館工作,2000年遠赴比利時在米芝蓮一星餐廳l’Essentiel工作兩年,2002年回流東京分別在Au Goût du Jour及Au Goût du Jour Merveille工作職至主廚,2014年在這裡創立自己的餐廳。4年後(2018年)摘下米芝蓮一星及米芝蓮綠星至今。

舖面不大不小,可以容納20名客人。一個人來,坐在角落的四人檯,舒適。點了tasting menu也要了配酒,先來的Henri Giraud Champagne Esprit Nature Brut清爽而酸度十足,舟車勞頓的由東北來到東京,正好以此喚醒味蕾。

小吃一式三款,海膽撻小小的,撻底做得薄而極脆口,跟豐腴的北海道海膽形成不錯的口感反差。放在上面的脆海藻是意想不到的味道鮮明,跟海膽同吃也配合得不錯。

放在蛋白餅上的是吞拿魚腩,前者的豐腴跟後者的脆口在口感上形成不錯的層次感。最後還有一小杯南瓜湯,用上魚湯底,貫徹小吃的海鮮主調之餘也香甜可口。

前菜來的是池魚粒,上面放著厚厚的燈籠椒慕絲。後者微微煙薰的味道是這道菜式的亮點,也襯托出池魚的鮮美。中間還放上了以蕃茄清做成的啫喱及蜜柑粒,天然酸及甜的味道豐富了整道菜式的味覺。

煎紅鯛魚美妙之處在於略厚的魚皮,煎得口感脆口之餘,其底層也有薄薄的一層魚油,香味十足。配上的是炸小蘿卜及炸羽衣甘藍,一點點的苦味剛好平衡了煎紅鯛的微微油膩感。墊底的是以甘藍及香草打成的醬汁,又幹掉半個麵包。

肉類的主菜用上了鼎鼎大名的田村牛,是但馬牛中最好的品種。用上的是油脂較少的臀肉部份,肉味濃郁而口感軟滑,很不錯。

第一道甜點是牛奶雪葩,加入橄欖油及海鹽令其味道更豐富。押尾的士多啤梨及小朱古力餅甜點同樣是用上焦糖海鹽去調味。只要運用得宜,一點點的鹹味幾時也可以成為甜點的亮點。

精緻而份量恰到好處的一頓精品法國菜,特別欣賞大廚在好幾道菜式上味道及口感的配合。加上配酒是萬五円左右,整體而言,值得一試。

結論:值得推薦

評分:(以5個&為滿分)

食物:&&&&1/2
服務:&&&&
環境:&&&&

餐廳資料:
La Paix(ラペ)
東京都中央区日本橋室町1-9-4
井上第3ビル B1F
050-3196-2390



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