What’s quintessential about Hong Kong is the pace of life.

The city isn’t just constantly busy or, as some might say, chaotic; most of the time, you have to pick up your walking pace just to avoid annoying those behind you. You may wonder, can’t people slow down a bit and take a break? They do, in fact. Things like popping into a cha chaan teng for a freshly baked egg tart, paired with a milk tea or a coffee around 3:00pm—the classic Hong Kong-style afternoon tea. This is also where coffee rose in popularity in the 1950s, becoming many locals’ everyday caffeine fix. It’s often a mix of dark-roasted (instant) coffee and evaporated or sweetened condensed milk, hence rich in flavor: bold, bitter, and smooth.

The city’s coffee industry continued to grow over the next few decades, with Japanese and global brands such as UCC and Starbucks joining the scene. Local chains like Pacific Coffee also began to emerge. In just 20 years or so, hundreds of specialty coffee shops have sprung up, opening the door for people to explore and appreciate coffee’s complex aromatic charm.

Charting a path towards a more established speciality culture isn’t easy, though. Mainland coffee chains are multiplying—Luckin Coffee and Cotti Coffee have become household names for their drastically lower prices. Like everywhere else, home brewing has soared in popularity ever since the pandemic. Isn’t it fun to have your little home cafe, where you can try to recreate the authentic cafe experience that sometimes feels nonexistent in today’s coffee world? And not to mention that the matcha craze isn’t dying down, and cafes specializing in matcha drinks are popping up all over.

But thankfully, against all odds, Hong Kong’s specialty scene is still thriving. I’m sure you’ll find a cup that suits your palate, be it a pour-over coffee or an espresso-based drink, using a traditional or innovative processing method. So go ahead—let’s explore the independent cafes helping define coffee in Hong Kong today.

Fei Lung Coffee

This one-man coffee shop plus whiskey bar is mysterious, quirky, and fun—perfectly in sync with the neighborhood of Sham Shui Po. You never know what you’ll stumble upon wandering around: maybe a hidden vintage camera market stall, a decades-old leather store, or a modern select shop that sources exquisite home items from Japan.

Fei Lung Coffee is nothing like your typical cafe; there’s no Instagrammable all-day breakfast or latte art of any sort. Instead, you can have your cravings for filter coffee and whiskey, or a mix of both, satisfied at once here. Owner Fei Lung, with over 16 years of barista experience, has invented a number of signature drinks that beautifully blend coffee with whiskey. There’s a vast selection of coffee beans sourced from roasters and cafes worldwide, whose bags have added playful pops of color to the wall. Only clear, large ice cubes are used here—for both whiskey and iced pour-overs—to prevent the beverages from watering down quickly. Fei Lung passionately explains the flavor profile of every drink and is eager to share his wealth of knowledge with every customer.

It indeed encapsulates the essence of specialty coffee: detail-mindedness, hospitality, and warmth.

Barista Jam

Barista Jam in the lively neighborhood of Sheung Wan is a popular lunch spot for locals and expats alike—so yes, many of its pictures on Google are pasta and sourdough toast, but hang in there. You can rest assured that the craft here is never secondary to the food; after all, Barista Jam is one of the earliest catalysts for Hong Kong’s third-wave coffee culture. There are several single-origin hand-drip options, some available only as iced drip, but all prepared with in-house-roasted beans. And if you’re longing for Australian-style coffee: piccolo, flat white, Aussie iced coffee, you name it, you’re in the right place.

The two-story shop carries a greyish industrial look, with dim lighting that gives a relaxed atmosphere. Walking upstairs, you’ll be greeted by an impressive collection of coffee gear and accessories. This is where I got my very first dripper (V60, of course) years ago, at the start of my pour-over journey; all my beginner questions were patiently answered by an experienced barista, and the urge to learn everything about coffee germinated in me. It’s no exaggeration to say that Barista Jam will forever have a special place in my heart (right, I’m probably biased).

Coffeer

Coffeer isn’t the easiest spot to find; it’s hidden in a seemingly run-down mall, right in the heart of Causeway Bay’s vibrant shopping district. But the truly exceptional coffee bar experience that awaits is so worth the trip. Coffeer is another one-man coffee shop on this list, owned and run by Alex Lai, who has a boundless passion for everything about coffee. Albeit a simple setup with limited seating, it offers an impressive variety of coffees—grown from Indonesia to El Salvador by way of roasters from Japan to Germany, and roasted to a variety of styles. There’s a lot of thought put into brewing and serving; a defining example is the use of different drippers like Origami and Graycano and cups for each coffee that elevate its flavor, aroma, and overall experience.

The intimate setting fosters conversations that outlast your drink, and your visit gradually becomes an engaging sharing session among you, Alex, and all the other guests. Coffee indeed ties everything together.

Uncle Ben Coffee

Uncle Ben Coffee is for serious coffee enthusiasts. If you’re intrigued by experimental processing or crave a little novel sensory exploration, this is the Hong Kong cafe for you. Co-fermented and lactic fermented coffees sourced from all over the world are nicely presented on the counter, where you can take a good sniff of all before deciding on your order. If, after all the hesitating, sniffing, and thinking, you still can’t make up your mind, let the baristas know your preferred flavor and way of brewing, and they’ll make a few amazing suggestions. What makes the experience more fun is that you can taste the same coffee using two different-shaped cups—isn’t it your own experiment of how cup shape possibly affects the perception of flavor and aroma?

There’s no food, but in-house designed drip bags, cold brew bags, totes, and mugs, which you can take home as souvenirs. Since Uncle Ben Coffee is a small operation, be prepared to wait for a bit, especially on weekends.

Crew

Crew is a cute, small coffee shop that feels like a respite from the hustle and bustle of Wan Chai, one of Hong Kong’s busiest business districts. It has a delightfully playful character, where tiny figurine toys and collectables like Pokémon cards (some of which are astonishingly valuable) can be found cramming every nook and cranny of the space. In just six years of operation, it has gathered a crew of regulars—or in their words, Crewmates—who are often spotted chitchatting around the counter. This is illustrative of how customer interaction is put at the core; Crew is a place that invites everyone to stay and hang out a bit. Equally important is cup consistency, and they have constantly achieved that. Single-origin espresso is a must-try, but for those not fond of espresso, there is an expansive hand-drip and non-coffee menu.

Right next to Crew is a public garden where you can take a breather from work, have a bit of people-watching and daydreaming while sipping your coffee. And one of the cafe’s plain white walls has  been turned into a hand-painted scene from the popular K-drama When Life Gives You Tangerines, accompanied by two special drinks curated on the same theme. This place is always full of surprises.

Crew is located at Shop 9A, G/F, On Hing Mansion, 156-164 Queen’s Road East, Wan Chai, Hong Kong. Visit their official website and follow them on Instagram.

Jodee Fok is an impact researcher and writer based in Hong Kong. This is Jodee Fok’s first feature for Sprudge.