Image generated with Ai

In a significant shift toward restoring regional mobility, North Korea has joined China, Japan, Hong Kong, and Australia in the gradual reopening of its borders and the resumption of cross-border travel. This move marks a notable development as countries across the Asia-Pacific region begin to ease pandemic-era restrictions and reintegrate into global travel networks. However, despite this cautious step forward, international tourists remain stranded, with North Korea’s tourism access stubbornly restricted and visas still denied. This paradox underscores the delicate balancing act the country faces between reopening its borders to regional neighbors and maintaining tight control over foreign access, leaving the broader tourism industry in a state of uncertainty.

Now retired, one individual has a burning desire to travel and see the world, with North Korea—an enigmatic and isolated nation—at the top of the list. This country lies just across the river from their hometown in northeastern China, a place that has served as their lifelong home. For years, North Korea has maintained strict control over foreign visitors, a policy that became even more rigid with the onset of the COVID-19 pandemic six years ago. Since then, the country has essentially sealed its borders, leaving little room for international interaction. However, the pandemic also marked a turning point in the country’s relationship with the outside world, especially when North Korea decided to close its borders completely. While the rest of the world began to reopen, North Korea remained firmly shut off.

As time passed, there were occasional signs of a potential reopening. Pyongyang, the capital city of North Korea, cautiously began to take small steps toward resuming its interactions with the outside world. This included a resumption of daily passenger train services between China and North Korea earlier this month, signaling a slow but steady process of re-engagement. Yet, despite these developments, Pyongyang has yet to lift its ban on issuing tourism visas to Chinese citizens. Once the largest group of foreign visitors to North Korea, Chinese tourists remain effectively locked out. This poses a significant obstacle for many who had hoped to see this reclusive nation firsthand.

In addition to the resumption of train services, another crucial sign of the country’s gradual reopening has been the announcement that Air China plans to resume flights to Pyongyang. These flights are set to take off on Monday, representing a noteworthy shift in North Korea’s approach to international travel. However, for now, the flights will be strictly limited to those holding work or study visas, further emphasizing the controlled nature of the country’s reopening. These developments signal a cautious optimism for those who are eager to visit North Korea but must contend with the fact that tourism, especially for Chinese citizens, remains restricted.

In Dandong, the main Chinese city that serves as a vital gateway for cross-border travel and trade with North Korea, journalists from AFP observed an intriguing scene this week. A passenger train, nearly empty, crossed a bridge into North Korea. This image underscored the current reality of travel to North Korea: while the country is slowly reopening its doors, the vast majority of people still cannot cross the border without a clear purpose, such as business or study. The train crossing the bridge into North Korea was an almost solitary event, reflecting the restricted nature of cross-border movement at this time.

Not far from this scene, tourists gathered on a bridge—part of which was destroyed by U.S. bombing during the Korean War—taking photos and peering through binoculars at the North Korean city of Sinuiju across the river. This area has become something of a vantage point for those seeking to catch a rare glimpse of the secretive nation. The bridge, once a symbol of division, now serves as a viewing platform for the curious and the adventurous, eager to witness life in North Korea from a distance.

In addition to the views offered from the bridge, tour boats are also being used to take tourists closer to the border, offering them a chance to observe North Korean life along the Yalu River. As the boats drift along the water, visitors can catch sight of North Koreans riding bicycles along the riverbanks or cleaning boats moored to the shore. These fleeting glimpses of daily life in North Korea provide a rare opportunity to witness the rhythm of life in a country that is often shrouded in mystery and isolation. However, it is clear that despite these rare opportunities for observation, the boundary between North Korea and the outside world remains closely guarded. Uniformed North Korean guards are stationed at regular intervals along the river, ensuring that the border is not crossed by any unwelcome visitors.

While some tourists make the journey to Dandong for a glimpse of the isolated nation, they are not the only ones drawn to this area. International tourists from Hong Kong, Japan, and Australia have also found their way to this border city, hoping to catch a rare and fleeting look at North Korea. Among them is one traveler, a 22-year-old nurse from Brisbane, Australia, who described his visit to North Korea as a “bucket-list item.” He noted that while the opposite bank of the river appeared barren in some places, it seemed more developed than he had initially imagined. This realization speaks to the complexity of North Korea, a country that is often misunderstood and mischaracterized by outsiders. Although much of the country remains hidden from view, the glimpses that do emerge suggest that North Korea is far from a stagnant or underdeveloped nation.

Despite these tentative signs of opening up, North Korea’s economy continues to face significant challenges. China remains the country’s primary ally and benefactor, providing crucial economic support. Trade between the two countries remains a lifeline for North Korea, and Dandong plays a central role in this economic relationship. Under ongoing UN sanctions, North Korea’s economy has struggled, but trade through Dandong is one of the few ways it continues to function. Cross-border shipments through Dandong surged to $2.7 billion last year, nearly returning to pre-pandemic levels. This is a remarkable statistic, especially considering the harsh sanctions that North Korea continues to face.

For the residents of Dandong, the cautious reopening of the border brings new hope. Thousands of North Koreans have made their homes in Dandong over the years, despite the challenges posed by international sanctions. However, many of these North Koreans have faced tremendous hardship, particularly when the border was abruptly closed in 2020 due to the pandemic. Families were separated, and many people found themselves stranded in foreign countries for years. Now, as travel restrictions begin to ease, there is a sense of optimism among those who have long been separated from their loved ones. For example, one waitress from Pyongyang, who has been living in China for over six years, told AFP that travel seems to be getting easier again. This development, while slow, offers hope to those who have been separated for years, as the possibility of reuniting with family members becomes increasingly real.

North Korea has joined China, Japan, Hong Kong, and Australia in gradually reopening its borders, yet international tourists remain stranded as the country stubbornly restricts tourism access and continues to deny visas, prioritizing state control over foreign visitors.

The situation in Dandong and the surrounding areas offers a snapshot of the delicate balance between isolation and engagement that North Korea is currently navigating. While the country has not fully opened its doors to the world, the signs of a gradual reopening are becoming more apparent. For many, this cautious approach is seen as a necessary step, one that acknowledges both the challenges and opportunities that come with re-engagement with the international community. Whether or not this will lead to a more significant shift in North Korea’s approach to foreign relations remains to be seen, but for now, the world watches closely as this isolated nation takes its first steps back into the global fold.