KC賞味隨筆: 號外:京都法國菜研習 ~ 隨意 NAKATSUKA


在関西工作幾天,收工的那天在京都。好歹也要找個地方好好吃一頓,左挑右選,來了這裡。

或者大家不知道,我揀餐廳給自己吃的過程,有時連自己也覺得自己麻煩。首先我問自己想在這個地區想多吃什麼:答案是西餐。大店或小店?我想要小店。店子又要有吸引我來的原因,這裡的就是大廚:中塚貴之。

主理人兼大廚1981年出生,京都人士。看其履歷,絕對亮麗。2001年從辻調理師専門學校畢業以後就追隨東京法國菜大師:「NARISAWA」的成澤由浩氏修業5年。此後5年在歐洲工作,分別在米芝蓮三星的「Le Pre Catelan」及「Arzak」及米芝蓮二星的「Le Grand Vefour」及「DE PASTORALE」等餐廳工作過。吸滿鹹水回國再在其師傅的「NARISAWA」侍上兩年,才回京都開立自己的店子。

店子開立在中京区姉小路通的一間改建的町家之中,舖面不大,但座落其中頗舒適之餘也有地元特色:這是其中一個我愛在京都吃西餐的原因之一:在最傳統和式環境中吃有水準的西式餐點,感覺是特別的。

6道菜連甜點的餐牌已放在面前,看上去是以海鮮為主調,正合意。喝一口布根地白酒,讓心情好好準備。

悅口小吃是紫菜脆片,炸好的脆片放在蜆殼上上檯,賣相本身已很精緻。脆片十級酥脆而帶淡淡的紫菜味道,是一等一稱職的下酒菜。

前菜是一小道一小道的送上來,款款精緻。螢光魷魚本身保留了最原始的鹹香及甜美,唯鮮無敵。墊在一塊塗了茄子醬的曲奇上,涼涼的茄子醬將味蕾清洗過來,可享受下一道菜式。

再下來就是一小碗加入香草油及一點點黃豆粉的蕃薯泡沫,打得挺身但吃起來口感似有還無,味道卻是濃郁的蕃薯香甜味,高技巧。

三片縞鰺刺身加上莞萎油,看上去是清新可喜。縞鰺本身經風乾陳化兩天,肉質吃起來較爽實而味道更濃郁。芫萎油的香味反而令縞鰺味道更帶微甜,神奇。墊底的是來自京都我白蘆筍,幼身但極稔甜,跟縞鰺同吃也不錯。

再下來是一小件野豬焗蛋餅,野豬肉不用多介紹也知道是「重口味」,特色在刨上不少的開心果仁,一點點的堅果口感及味道是最好的配搭。墊底的說是焗蛋餅,口感卻似yorkshire pudding類型的,蛋香味濃。

主菜上檯,海鮮主菜是烤鰆魚。初夏的鰆魚油脂不及冬天時的豐富,但魚味就更濃郁。輕輕烤過的鮮百合更爽口及甜美,而醬汁加入了酒釀去煮,微微的酸味正好中和鰆魚的一丁點的魚腥味,美妙。

肉類主菜是豚里脊肉,京都產的豚肉肉質很不錯,口感鬆化而味道帶點甜味,是上等肉。伴碟的羊肚菌味道濃郁,墊底是一點點酸菜,適當中和吃豚肉時帶來的一點膩滯感。

士多啤梨是押尾甜點的主調,士多啤梨刨冰及新鮮士多啤梨都香甜,這都是京都出產的。外邊貼上的是椰子脆片,加上一球橘子雪葩,清新可喜的甜點。

店子準備了四款茶給客人挑選,都是京都的特色調茶。可惜我不是「茶人」,還是來一杯咖啡較合心意。

吃得滿意的一頓法國菜,期待下次再試更多。

結帳,離開店子,走在古色古香的京都小街內,是別有一番風味。年青時不喜歡京都,但年紀越大就越喜歡這個地方。說不出特別的原因,總之有時間也想回來走走,吃頓飯。

逛至最後一分鐘,要乘車出関西機場,繼續下一段旅程及工作。

結論:值得推薦

評分:(以5個&為滿分)

食物:&&&&
服務:&&&&
環境:&&&&

餐廳資料:
NAKATSUKA
京都府京都市中京区木之下町299
Coto Glance姉小路通 1F
050-5600-3512



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