Once upon a time, the maharaja of Tehri Garhwal discovered a beautiful piece of land in the foothills of the Himalayas in Uttarakhand, India. It was here that he built the stunning Viceregal Palace, which played host to heads of state from India and abroad, including Britain’s Lord Mountbatten.
The resort is reached via a 40-minute domestic flight from Delhi, followed by a beautiful, winding drive up through the mountains. Upon entering through its golden gates, it’s as though you’ve been transported to a different world.
The main reception area is housed in the palace annex, while the resort is spread across 40 hectares of forest, home to rare birds and baboons (only 15 per cent is developed). The grounds include an outdoor yoga pavilion, amphitheatre, walking track and even a six-hole golf course. The views take in two of India’s spiritual landmarks: yoga mecca Rishikesh and a section of the holy Ganges River. Even if you do not believe in the mystical, it’s hard not to feel the energy that permeates the place.
The resort’s 75 rooms and suites are clustered around the main complex, with three free-standing villas – each with its own deck and pool – set apart for added privacy. The Viceregal Suite, with its period four-poster bed, is located in the palace. My recently renovated suite is elegant with colourful design touches, but the real lure is the expansive balcony with panoramic views of Rishikesh as it lights up the sky each evening.
As I’m walking over, I realise that everyone is dressed in identical white kurta pyjamas, which are given to guests to wear during their stay. I’m not sure if I want to look like I’m part of a cult – albeit a very elegant one – but once I change, I feel more relaxed and serene (full disclosure: I barely changed out of them for the rest of the trip).
