Gulmarg fashion show sparks row in Indian-administered Kashmir

Cherylann Mollan

BBC News, Mumbai

Team Shivan & Narresh A model showcases an outfit in Gulmarg against a snowy backdropTeam Shivan & Narresh

The fashion show by designers Shivan and Narresh showcased the brand’s skiwear collection

A fashion show held last week in a picturesque, snow-clad town in Indian-administered Kashmir has sparked a major controversy that is still simmering.

The show, by the well-known fashion brand Shivan & Narresh, was held last Friday at a ski resort in Gulmarg to display their skiwear collection. The label is the first big, non-local brand to hold a fashion show in Kashmir, a scenic Himalayan region which has seen decades of violence.

But it soon sparked outrage among locals, politicians and religious leaders in Muslim-majority Kashmir after fashion publisher Elle India posted a video on social media which showed some models wearing underwear or bikinis. Locals were also angry over another video – shared by online magazine Lifestyle Asia – of a party held after the show, which showed people drinking alcohol outdoors.

Many took offence with the show being held in the holy month of Ramadan – a time of fasting and prayer for Muslims – and accused the designers of “mocking their faith” and “disregarding local culture and sentiments”. Some clerics called the show “obscene” and said it was like “soft porn”.

Some others explained that the outrage had arisen not only from religious conservatism, but also from a fear of cultural imposition from “outsiders”. Kashmir has witnessed decades of armed separatist insurgency against Indian rule since the late 1980s.

The backlash prompted Elle India and Lifestyle Asia to delete their videos. Shivan Bhatiya and Narresh Kukreja, the designers behind the label, also apologised, saying that their “sole intention was to celebrate creativity” and that they didn’t intend to offend religious sentiments.

Team Shivan & Narresh A photo of models at the Shivan and Narresh fashion showTeam Shivan & Narresh

The models sashayed on the snow against a wintry backdrop

Kashmir – known as the land of saints and Sufism (Islamic mysticism) – has a rich tradition of spirituality which influences many aspects of peoples’ lives. The traditional attire is modest, with locals – both men and women – often wearing the pheran, a long, loose cloak.

The row also moved off social media and a discussion about the show and the after-party caused a ruckus in the Jammu and Kashmir assembly.

The opposition criticised the government, accusing it of giving permission for the event despite being aware of local sensitivities. Meanwhile, Jammu and Kashmir Chief Minister Omar Abdullah distanced his government from the event, saying it had been organised by private entities, and asking local authorities to investigate the matter and submit a report.

“If law has been violated, strict action will be taken,” he said in the assembly on Monday. The police have not yet given details about who organised the event and what laws, if any, have been violated.

The fashion brand did not respond to the BBC’s questions about the show, including about permissions it obtained.

Getty Images A woman wearing a protective face mask walks along a road in Srinagar, Jammu and Kashmir, on January 15, 2025. Getty Images

Locals in Kashmir often wear a long cloak called the pheran

It’s not surprising that scenic Gulmarg – one of India’s few skiing destinations and a favourite with tourists – was the choice of venue for a show highlighting a skiwear collection.

Fashion journalist Shefalee Vasudev says it’s not uncommon for designers to want to hold fashion shows in exquisite locations.

In fact, international designers like Alexander McQueen and Karl Lagerfeld are remembered as much for their creative, theatrical fashion shows as they are for their iconic designs.

But experimentation brings with it the risk of controversy and so, it’s important to be mindful of the political and cultural sensitivities of a place, Ms Vasudev told the BBC.

And this holds especially true in a place like Kashmir, which has witnessed wars and decades of armed conflict.

Both India and Pakistan claim Kashmir in full but control it only in parts. Since India’s partition and the creation of Pakistan in 1947, the nuclear-armed neighbours have fought two wars over the territory.

Thousands of people have been killed since the late 1980s, when a separatist insurgency broke out against Indian rule. Though the separatist movement has lost steam over the years, many locals continue to view the administration in Delhi with distrust.

These sentiments have deepened since 2019 when the federal government, led by the Hindu nationalist Bharatiya Janata Party, stripped the region of its autonomy.

So some locals told the BBC that they were not surprised by the reactions to the show.

“Everything in Kashmir is political; people see things through a political prism,” says Mir, a professor at a local university (he asked for his surname to be withheld to protect his identity). He adds that people are sceptical about big corporate events like the fashion show and – even if they are organised by private players – they believe that the government is trying to dilute their culture.

Arshid Ahmad, a researcher, uses stronger words to express public angst. “The government is trying to dilute the spirit of resistance in Kashmiris,” he says.

This isn’t the first time an event held by non-locals has triggered a controversy in Kashmir. In 2013, separatists and human rights activists in the region protested against a show by renowned conductor Zubin Mehta. They said it was an attempt by the government to show the world that all was well in Kashmir when people were “suffering and dying”.

Getty Images Models wearing black and white clothing walk down a long runway lit by spotlights oh the Great Wall of China, flanked by rows of people sitting and watching the fashion showGetty Images

In 2007, Fendi and designer Karl Lagerfeld held an iconic fashion show on the Great Wall of China

Some of the recent apprehensions around culture and identity can also be tied to the increase in tourists to Kashmir from other states in India. The federal government has often connected this boom in tourism to the abrogation of Article 370, which stripped the region of its autonomy.

Nousheen Fatima, 34, says because of government messaging, people outside Kashmir now see the region as being safer and “more assimilated with India”. But she alleges that many tourists do not respect the region’s culture.

Last year, a video showing tourists drinking alcohol during a boat ride on the famous Dal Lake in Srinagar evoked outrage from political and religious leaders, who called the behaviour “un-Islamic and unethical”.

In February, locals put up posters in Srinagar, asking tourists to “respect local culture and traditions” and “avoid alcohol and use of drugs”, but these were later pulled down by the police.

In an editorial for The Voice of Fashion magazine, Ms Vasudev argues that the outrage needs to be examined from a critical lens. She asks if it would have been all right for the show to have been held in another Indian city instead of Kashmir, where Muslims would also be observing Ramadan. And whether it would have been acceptable to hold the show in Kashmir if it featured only outfits perceived as modest.

She also points out that Kashmir is home to the “world’s finest wool yarn; some of the finest handspun, handwoven pashmina creations and its artisans”.

“What Kashmir creates and stands for cannot be replicated anywhere. Shouldn’t a fashion show at Gulmarg then, with innovative garments made with 100% wool, be seen as regenerating interest in untried ways?” she asks.

Follow BBC News India on Instagram, YouTube, X and Facebook.



Source link

Visited 1 times, 1 visit(s) today

Related Article

Pakistan moves closer to Bangladesh as India watches warily

Pakistan moves closer to Bangladesh as India watches warily

Anbarasan Ethirajan South Asia Regional Editor Getty Images Bangladesh imported 50,000 tonnes of rice from Pakistan in February The dramatic political developments in Bangladesh that led to prime minister Sheikh Hasina being ousted last year have thrown up many surprises – including Dhaka’s growing closeness with one-time foe Pakistan. Last month, after decades of troubled

Death toll from US strikes on Yemen rises to 53, Houthis say

Death toll from US strikes on Yemen rises to 53, Houthis say

Watch: US begins Yemen strikes The death toll from US strikes on Yemen has risen to 53, including five children, the Houthi rebels’ health ministry said. The US said it launched a “decisive and powerful” wave of air strikes on Houthi targets on Saturday, with President Donald Trump citing Houthi attacks on shipping in the

'I had one child and I lost him'

‘I had one child and I lost him’

George Wright and Cachella Smith BBC News “I lost everything”: Survivors and relatives speak of their grief Marija Taseva was enjoying a night out with her sister at the Pulse club in Kocani, North Macedonia, on Saturday when disaster struck. They were watching DNK, a popular hip-hop duo in the country, when a fire broke

Trump/Houthi split

Houthi drones shot down by US forces after Trump launches ‘decisive’ airstrikes

U.S. warships have shot down roughly a dozen Houthi drones since President Donald Trump launched airstrikes against the terrorist organization on Saturday, Fox News has learned. A senior defense official told Fox News of the developments on Sunday. The drones were aimed at the U.S. Navy’s Truman Carrier Strike Group, and were shot down “well

Rain ending tonight ahead of a beautiful St. Patrick’s Day

Rain ending tonight ahead of a beautiful St. Patrick’s Day

The Action News Jax First Alert Weather Team declared a First Alert Weather Day Sunday due to a chance for severe weather in our area. Our entire viewing area was under a Tornado Watch until 3 P.M. Sunday, with it extended to 5 P.M. for St. Johns and Putnam Counties. After several tornado and severe

Nacton giant warehouse leaves neighbours 'in tears'

Nacton giant warehouse leaves neighbours ‘in tears’

George King BBC News, Suffolk Reporting fromFelixstowe Road, Nacton George King/BBC Residents say East Suffolk Council ignored their concerns over the huge warehouse being built behind their homes Villagers say a “gigantic mega-shed” built near their homes has blocked their view and left them feeling like they are in a prison camp. What is life

In this photo released by the Vatican, Pope Francis is seen praying inside Rome's Gemelli Hospital on Sunday.

Pope Francis seen in first photo since hospitalization : NPR

In this photo released by the Vatican, Pope Francis is seen praying inside Rome’s Gemelli Hospital on Sunday. Vatican Press Hall/via AP hide caption toggle caption Vatican Press Hall/via AP A photo released by the Vatican on Sunday showed Pope Francis for the first time since he entered the hospital over a month ago for

Pope Francis is seen for the first time since his hospitalization

Pope Francis is seen for the first time since his hospitalization

Joshua McElwee  |  Reuters Pope Francis sends first audio message since being hospitalized People gathering to pray at St. Peter’s Square were moved by an audio “thank you” message from the pope, who is in the hospital. VATICAN CITY — The Vatican on Sunday released the first image of Pope Francis in hospital since he began treatment for double

Alleged render of iPhone 17 air in silver color.

iPhone 17 Air might not serve a price shock, after all

Ever since we first heard murmurs of Apple prepping an ultra-slim iPhone, speculations were rife about a fittingly high asking price. But it seems buyers won’t get hit with an absurd “innovation tax” for the iPhone 17 Air model later this year. According to Bloomberg, the upcoming phone might be priced at “roughly $900.” To

Putin and Trump recent split image

Witkoff says Trump, Putin to speak this week on phone about Ukraine-Russia deal

U.S. special envoy to the Middle East Steve Witkoff said Sunday that President Donald Trump will likely speak with Russian President Vladimir Putin this week.  In an appearance on CNN’s “State of the Union,” Witkoff was asked when a deal to end the war in Ukraine could be anticipated.  “The president uses the timeframe weeks,

US envoy Steve Witkoff, Russian President Vladimir Putin and US President Donald Trump  Photograph: (Reuters)

Trump to talk to Putin this week; White House puts Iran ‘on notice’, and more

US President Donald Trump is expected to hold talks with Russian President Vladimir Putin this week to negotiate a ceasefire in Ukraine. White House put Iran ‘on notice’ following strikes in Yemen, killing “multiple” Houthi leaders on Sunday (Mar 16). At least 11 people were killed after a convoy of buses was attacked by Baloch

Tweet describes witnessing a woman get into her car, play Shania Twain, vape, and reverse into another car in a parking lot, humorously noting it's in California

Here Are The Absolute Funniest Weekend Tweets

Editor’s Note: While we can’t endorse what X has become, we can bring you the worthwhile moments that still exist there, curated and free of the surrounding chaos. For some reason, the best tweets always seem to happen on the weekend. Here are some funny ones that recently came across my timeline. Be sure to

0
Would love your thoughts, please comment.x
()
x