In partnership with Hong Kong Tourism Board
Few people have witnessed Hong Kong’s street art scene unfold as closely – or as passionately – as Alexandra Unrein. Known to many as @streetartorama, the photographer, author, and tour guide first arrived in the city more than 15 years ago, long before murals regularly dotted Central’s backstreets or Hong Kong Arts Month drew global attention to public-facing creativity.
Since then, she has embedded herself in the city’s visual culture: interviewing artists, documenting ephemeral works, launching guided street art tours for HKwalls in 2018, and founding her boutique tour company Wanderlust Walks Hong Kong. With the release of her book Colourful Hong Kong – Street Art Stories and another Art Month on the horizon, Unrein reflects with RUSSH on first impressions of the city, festival energy, creative communities, and why Hong Kong’s walls continue to tell some of Asia’s most compelling stories.
1. Can you recall your first visit to Hong Kong?
As if it were yesterday. My former occupation as a flight attendant brought me to Hong Kong for the first time in the late naughties. I still remember the ride from the airport to the crew hotel; one of my first thoughts was, “What must life be like in one of those soaring high-rises?” When our crew hotel – located on Hong Kong Island – turned out to be one of them, I was thrilled. Situated on a high floor and overlooking the water, the room offered a magnificent view straight onto Victoria Harbour and the skyline. Truly a sight to remember.
Another fond memory of my first visit was crossing the harbour on the Star Ferry – from Wan Chai to Kowloon – a short but charming journey.
2. What was your initial impression of the Hong Kong arts scene? And what struck you most about it?
Looking back, the scene was very different then; it was still in its infancy. Only few galleries existed and the now-prominent gallery scene in Wong Chuk Hang’s industrial buildings was still just beginning. The city was only starting to get acquainted with the idea of an international art fair through ART HK, the predecessor of today’s Art Basel Hong Kong. The West Kowloon Cultural District was merely an idea on paper, and Tai Kwun had yet to be revitalised and stood as a historic site in the middle of Central. Street art, too, was a rare sight. Nevertheless, what struck me most was a palpable vibrancy and can-do-spirit in the air – a sense of the vibrant creative community that all these future projects would eventually create.
“What struck me most was a palpable vibrancy and can-do-spirit in the air – a sense of the vibrant creative community that all these future projects would eventually create.”
3. How did the arts scene there differ from your experiences at other arts festivals.
My expertise lies primarily with street art festivals. When comparing festivals in the Western hemisphere with those in Asia, I have noticed that Asian festivals still tend to be smaller and more intimate. This creates a more relaxed atmosphere where the ‘barrier’ between the public and the artists is lower. For instance, I’ve found that artists at HKwalls are often more open to chatting with enthusiastic passers-by, giving the festival a genuine community feel that can sometimes be lost at larger festivals.
4. Are there any programme highlights from this year’s Hong Kong Arts Festival that aren’t to be missed?
While my focus is always on the street art scene during the city’s ‘Art Month,’ the obvious highlight for me is HKwalls. I’m already looking forward to seeing the public realm transformed again in 2026. I honestly think there is nothing better than observing an artwork being created live; seeing it develop and grow into a finished piece.
HKwalls consistently pushes the boundaries of a ‘classic’ mural festival. Last year was a great example: they featured Italian artist El Rughi, who created a giant contemporary version of a classic Hong Kong board game, and Spanish artist Isaac Cordal hid about 30 of his miniature sculptures in plain sight, turning the festival districts into an artsy scavenger hunt. With its mix of workshops, talks, and guided tours, it remains a must-see for anyone wanting to experience art outside the ‘white walls’ of a traditional gallery.
“I honestly think there is nothing better than observing an artwork being created live; seeing it develop and grow into a finished piece.”
5. What inspired you to create a book about the Hong Kong street art scene?
I was inspired by two things. First, there was a clear gap – there simply wasn’t a book on Hong Kong’s street art scene. When I started discovering it, I was so curious about the artists, but it was incredibly difficult to find any information. I kept hoping a book would come out until I realised that, after years of chatting with the artists and observing them work, I might be the right person to create the very book I’d been looking for.
Secondly, I realised early on that the scene in Hong Kong, and across Asia, doesn’t get the attention it deserves globally. It is still relatively unknown compared to other regions. I hope my book encourages street art enthusiasts and art lovers to be curious about the incredible creativity happening in this part of the world.
6. Who were some of the artists, craftspeople or creative communities that left an impression on you?
Some of the earliest craftspeople I admired were actually my Mother and my Grandfather, both of whom were classically trained tailors. The care and dedication they brought to their craft was absolutely fascinating and inspiring to me. In terms of fine art, the French sculptor Auguste Rodin was one of the first artists to truly captivate me, closely followed by the Impressionist movement. These days, however, street art and photography command the majority of my attention. The local street art community continues to impress me. There are so many incredible artists and such a wealth of creativity that deserves to be seen – which is exactly why I wrote Colourful Hong Kong – Street Art Stories.
“Some of the earliest craftspeople I admired were actually my Mother and my Grandfather, both of whom were classically trained tailors.”
7. Where were some of the favourite places to eat/ drink/ stay/ spend time in Hong Kong
After many years in Hong Kong, I could probably write a guidebook on where to eat, drink, and spend time here. Given that it’s Arts Month, I’ll focus my recommendations on Hong Kong Island, specifically Central and Wan Chai, where Art Central, Art Basel Hong Kong, and HKwalls take place.
When it comes to the city’s culinary scene, I believe every visitor should experience the staples: dim sum, egg waffles, egg tarts, and milk tea.
For dim sum, the Central location of Tim Ho Wan is a no-frills, reliable choice. For a more elaborate experience, I recommend Yum Cha; their dishes are not only tasty, but also incredibly ‘Instagrammable.’
Egg waffles, or gai daan zai, are delicious bubble-shaped treats. Mammy Pancake simply makes the best; they offer a fantastic array of flavours, and every order is made fresh. For authentic Hong Kong-style egg tarts – sweet, eggy goodness in a shortcrust pastry – Tai Cheong Bakery in Central is the gold standard. Founded in 1954, it’s the purported creator of this style. For a contemporary twist, try Bakehouse, where the tarts are made with sourdough and are slightly less sweet.
Hong Kong-style milk tea is a potent, smooth blend of black tea and evaporated milk. The ‘silk-stocking’ texture is achieved by filtering the brew through a fine mesh cloth. Lan Fong Yuen, a traditional street stall in Central, is credited as the originator. If the lines are too long, you can find great milk tea in almost any cha chaan teng, though my personal favourite is My Cup of Tea in Wan Chai.
Picking a favourite place to spend time is difficult. When I’m craving art and culture, I usually spend an afternoon in the halls of the M+, the DX Design Hub, or Tai Kwun. To relax, I head to the south side of the island to the beaches of Deep Water Bay or Repulse Bay. I also love walking the Peak Trail for those iconic views. For a dose of local culture, I’ll venture into the city’s various temples, catch a Cantonese Opera performance at the Xiqu Centre, or stroll through Nan Lian Garden.
You can check out Hong Kong Arts Month programs now, including (Mar 21-29), (Mar 27-29), (Mar 26-Apr 5), (Mar 21-22), (Mar 22-3), (Mar 25-29), (Feb-Mar) and (Mar 19-Apr 12).
