Does the Varia VS6 coffee grinder live up to the hype? Join us as we test it to find out.

BY VASILEIA FANARIOTI
SENIOR ONLINE CORRESPONDENT

Photos by Vasileia Fanarioti

The world of coffee grinders is increasingly shifting toward high precision and versatility, with single-dosing grinders becoming a staple for home baristas and small cafés alike. The Varia VS6 enters this space with a set of compelling features: interchangeable burrs, variable RPM control, and micron-level grind adjustments. But how well does it perform in real-world scenarios? This “Test Drive” puts the VS6 through multiple brewing setups, evaluating everything from design and usability, to retention and flavor clarity.

Based in New Zealand, Varia has already made a prominent name for itself in the specialty-coffee industry, winning awards like the 2021 Specialty Coffee Association (SCA) Best New Product Award for their Varia Brewer, and the 2022 Specialty Coffee Association Japan (SCAJ) Good Design Product Award for their VS3 grinder. Knowing this, it’s safe to say that our expectations for the VS6 were high.

Unboxing the Varia VS6

Right out of the box, the Varia VS6 makes a strong first impression. Unlike the usual cardboard packaging, the grinder arrives in a TSU-1 resin hard case, which is shockproof, waterproof, and dust-resistant. Inside, custom EPE + EVA foam inserts hold each component securely in place.

Included in the package are:

• The VS6 grinder (pre-fitted with 58mm flat burrs)
• A 58mm magnetic dosing cup
• Silicone bellows, to assist in reducing grind retention
• A cleaning brush and a spare parts toolkit
• A power cable (region-specific)

The packaging feels robust, designed to protect the grinder from shipping damage. Whether this is necessary for most buyers is debatable, but it does hint at a product built with longevity in mind.

Design and Build Quality

The VS6 has a compact but substantial presence. At 10.7 kg, it’s heavier than most home grinders, largely due to its full aluminum body. Unlike some competitors that mix materials, no plastic parts come into contact with the coffee. The 76.5-degree sloped geometry is designed to minimize retention, though real-world testing will determine how effective this actually is.

Magnetic components—including the dosing cup, hopper lid, and alignment collar—enhance usability. The grinder also features ionization needles to counteract static buildup and a spring-loaded knocker to help dislodge any remaining grounds. These additions suggest a focus on efficiency, but their effectiveness needs to be tested in daily use.

Tech Specs and Features

On paper, the Varia VS6 offers a high level of control over the grinding process:

• Motor & Power: 300W brushless motor, designed for smooth, quiet operation
• Burrs: 58mm flat burrs (default), with an option to upgrade to 63mm conical burrs
• RPM Control: Adjustable between 500 and 1600 RPM, allowing for precise grind speed adjustments
• Grind Adjustments: Stepless, with five-micron precision and a revolution counter to track settings
• Hopper Capacity: 80g, suited for single dosing rather than batch grinding

The combination of variable RPM and interchangeable burrs makes the VS6 one of the few grinders capable of fine-tuning both grind texture and speed. Whether this results in a noticeable difference in extraction remains to be seen.

Setup and Calibration

Setting up the VS6 is straightforward. After placing it on a stable surface and plugging it in, the hopper is attached with a simple twist. The grind size is adjusted by rotating the hopper, with the magnetic sight ring displaying the setting.

A key aspect of any new grinder is burr seasoning. The VS6 requires about four pounds of coffee to fully season the burrs, allowing coffee oils to coat the surfaces. Until this process is complete, users may experience higher static retention. During testing, using the Ross Droplet Technique (RDT) (spraying a light mist of water onto beans before grinding) helped mitigate this issue.

Testing the VS6 Across Different Brew Methods

To get a full sense of the VS6’s capabilities, I tested it with espresso, pourover, and immersion brewing (French press) to see how well it handled different grind sizes and adjustments.

Espresso

The VS6 made fine adjustments easy, and once dialed in, the grind settings remained consistent from dose to dose. Retention was minimal, though I did notice some static, even with the built-in ionization needles. The bellows helped clear out any lingering grounds, but using them every time wasn’t always the smoothest workflow. That said, for a single-dosing grinder, the VS6 did a solid job keeping waste to a minimum.

Pourover and Immersion

Switching between espresso and filter grind sizes was straightforward, and the particle distribution remained impressively uniform. At higher RPMs, the grind consistency was visibly more even, while lower speeds created a slightly softer profile, which I found interesting when brewing delicate, high-acidity coffees.

Dialing in RPM for Flavor

One of the more unique features of the VS6 is its adjustable RPM, and I was curious to see how it would affect espresso extraction. Testing shots at 500, 1100, and 1600 RPM produced noticeable differences:

• 500 RPM: A mellow, lower-acidity shot with a smooth, creamy texture
• 1100 RPM: A brighter, more acid-driven espresso, finishing quickly on the palate
• 1600 RPM: A balanced sweetness and acidity, with a structured body and longer finish

For filter brewing, I found that lower RPMs highlighted clarity and sweetness, while higher speeds produced more body and texture. Across all brew methods, the VS6 maintained a clean and precise flavor profile, making it easy to experiment with different approaches.

Maintenance and Cleaning

Accessing the grinding chamber is relatively simple. The hopper unscrews, exposing the burrs, and the lower burr can be removed with the included toolkit. The brush and bellows help keep the chamber clean, though some retention is inevitable.

The proprietary burrs may be a limitation for some users, as third-party alternatives are unavailable. However, Varia offers multiple burr geometry options, which provides some flexibility.

Who It’s For

The Varia VS6 is a grinder designed for those who seek precision, flexibility, and full control over their grind settings. With interchangeable burrs and adjustable RPM, it stands out as a highly adaptable tool for both home baristas and small coffee shops looking to fine-tune their extractions.

For home users, the VS6 offers a high level of grind customization, making it ideal for those who enjoy experimenting with different brew methods and flavor profiles. Its precise adjustments and minimal retention ensure consistency across multiple grind settings, whether for espresso, pourovers, or immersion brewing.

In a small coffee shop setting, the VS6 proves to be a versatile and efficient option—particularly for cafés offering a variety of brew methods or looking for a reliable secondary grinder. The ability to adjust RPM and swap burrs provides baristas with an added level of control, allowing them to highlight different characteristics in their coffees with ease.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Vasileia Fanarioti (she/her) is a senior online correspondent for Barista Magazine and a freelance copywriter and editor with a primary focus on the coffee niche. She has also been a volunteer copywriter for the I’M NOT A BARISTA NPO, providing content to help educate people about baristas and their work.

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