Let’s begin by saying congratulations to Mark Birchall and everyone in the Moor Hall team – what they have achieved is truly special. Receiving Three MICHELIN Stars is an enormously impressive feat and comes hand in hand with years of dedication. At Moor Hall, our Inspectors felt the time was right to reward a restaurant that has been impressive for years and has now been refined and evolved to the Three-Star level. We asked one of the team for an insight into why Moor Hall truly deserves its place among the global culinary elite.
Arrival
A grand, 16th-century manor, Moor Hall blends the trappings of the best English country houses with a minimalistic modernity. This inherent sense of style and a friendly team made for a wonderful first impression for our duo of Inspectors.
“After parking, we made our way across the immaculate gardens – where I was delighted to see ingredients that we would taste later in the evening. At the door, we were warmly welcomed on this cold winter’s night, before being shown through to an elegant lounge. Here, exceptional snacks were served, before we were led into the semi-open kitchen where Chef Mark Birchall presented us with all the ingredients to be used in the meal, highlighting the produce-led approach of the cooking. Finally, we settled in the main dining room, a light, Nordic-style build with floor-to-ceiling windows that stylishly juxtaposed the manor house setting.”
The Moor Hall dining room blends Scandic modernity with country house surroundings. © Mark Bristol
The Team
Service at the very best restaurants often comes with a remarkable sense of calm – and the same is true of Moor Hall. The effortless way in which it’s run belies the hard work that goes into it, with the whole experience unfolding with ease.
“There was a relaxed, unpretentious manner to the team here. Everyone worked together in complete harmony to deliver an experience that was smooth without being overly formal – thanks in large part to the friendly and engaging service team. Any theatrical elements of the dishes were delivered with skill, and never distracted from the food on the plate.”
‘Turbot Cooked in Brown Butter, Mylor Prawns, Kuri Squash and Marigold Sauce’ at Moor Hall. © Mark Bristol
The Cooking
Three MICHELIN Stars are awarded for the quality of a restaurant’s cooking; so, what makes Three-Star food? What skills and details do the Inspectors feel deserve their ultimate award? The answer is that there is no set formula – what impresses our Inspectors can vary from place to place. What we will tell you, however, is what makes Moor Hall specifically so glorious.
“Mark Birchall’s cooking is like a mirror of the man himself, unflashy yet brilliant. Each dish we enjoyed had an understated intricacy and was so easy to eat, showing that the chefs understand the difference between complexity and over-elaboration. As with all the best cooking, the pure, natural ingredients were the bedrock, with the core produce enhanced and expertly balanced by herbs, fruits and vegetables from the kitchen garden. Like everything else, Moor Hall’s commitment to sustainability is more than a buzzword, and an approach which genuinely enriches the experience.”
‘Louët-Feisser Oyster’ at Moor Hall. © Mark Bristol
The Dishes Tasted
At Moor Hall, all diners enjoy an extensive tasting menu, with a shorter version available at lunch. For our Inspectors, every course proved to be exemplary, but here are a few that stuck in the memory.
Louët-Feisser Oyster
“This early snack was impressive in its purity. The oyster was firm and meaty, poached in buttermilk at a low temperature to preserve the natural flavours. Lightly pickled white beetroot added a subtle earthy flavour and sweetness, while its crunch provided a welcome textural contrast. Creamy buttermilk with dill oil bound all the elements together beautifully.”
‘Sweetbell Turnip and Crab, Anise Hyssop and Sunflower Seeds’ at Moor Hall. © Mark Bristol
‘Banks Blackberries, Muscovado, Woodruff and Oxalis’ at Moor Hall. © Mark Bristol
Hero Image: © Moor Hall/Mark Bristol
