There are people in Britain who have been waiting years for a restaurant like OMA to come along. Greek food is beloved by so many people, such is its delightful combination of heartening and refreshing dishes – plus its innate ability to transport you back to that sunny Mediterranean holiday you went on last year. And yet, the UK has never before had a MICHELIN-Star Greek restaurant. In under a year, OMA has opened, drawn in waves of discerning diners and now won its first Star. It’s no mean feat for Chef Jorge Paredes and Owner David Carter, who, as a MICHELIN Guide Inspector explains, have quickly created one of London’s most appealing destinations.
Arrival
Tucked away on the edge of bustling Borough Market, OMA is a haven for the hungry shopper as they seek rest and refreshment. At ground level, you’ll find its newly Bib-Gourmand-awarded sister restaurant AGORA, but it’s the MICHELIN-Star delights of the upper level that our Inspectors have reported back on.
“There’s something about walking up stairs to a restaurant that heightens the anticipation, as you slowly become aware of the noise emanating from a room full of contented diners. The sign outside of OMA is quite enigmatic and discreet, so finding those stairs isn’t that easy – but even that adds an extra layer of excitement, as you feel you’re in on a little secret. The first thing we noticed on entry was the huge tuna head sticking out of the ice on the raw bar – a sight to whet the appetite if ever there was one. Our table overlooked an open kitchen, where the chefs went about their work in a confident and choreographed way. The flames from the grill lit up the space and the enticing aromas wafted over.”
OMA is situated on the edge of Borough Market and sits above its sister restaurant, AGORA. © Christopher Horwood
The Team
OMA is one of those restaurants where you don’t notice just how well run it is. Our Inspectors visited on a busy day but found that nothing could faze the impressive service team.
“The room is bustling and busy, particularly during the earlier part of the evening, but the young and charming service team were impressively unflappable and always made time to answer questions or explain dishes. What’s more, the pace of the dishes’ arrival was exemplary. There was none of that ‘dishes arrive when they are ready’ business that plights so many restaurants and results in everything arriving at once. Here, it was more about the customer and there was no need for us to rush one dish before others got cold.”
The Drinks
A great meal out can be made even more joyous by the drinks that you pair it with, as our Inspectors found during their visit to OMA.
“While we mulled over the hugely appealing menu, I ordered a pomegranate and chamomile negroni, which has now become one of my favourite versions of the classic cocktail. After that, we chose a 2022 Lihnos Vidiano, Dourakis, from Crete. This ancient Cretan variety has had a small-scale renaissance and this example from a small grower didn’t disappoint. It was served at the perfect temperature, delivering a degree of richness and depth, and married well with the wide range of dishes.”
Make sure to try as many of the sharing plates as possible when visiting OMA. © Gilles Draps
The Cooking
With OMA’s MICHELIN Star providing a landmark moment for Greek cuisine in the UK, it will have set high expectations for any future visitor. But, if our Inspector’s comments are anything to go by, you’re unlikely to be disappointed.
“The cooking at OMA is delicious in a big, bold way that paints in broad brushstrokes of flavour without sacrificing depth or balance. Chef Jorge Paredes and his team are focussed on their flavours – and they are thrilling. His cooking is not strictly Greek in its makeup – happily incorporating influences from beyond with joyous results – but it is Greek in spirit, and utterly brilliant.”
The Dishes Tasted
Coming a few months after a pair of fellow Inspectors, our visitors this time decided to come for dinner, one being a British Inspector and one from California who was spending the week in London. They were keen to try a few dishes that the previous Inspectors didn’t order, and while they enjoyed many terrific dishes – such as whole squid cooked over charcoal and a chocolate cremoso for dessert – some particularly stood out.
‘Charred Lamb Belly with Hummus, Shallot and Mint Salata’ at OMA. © Gilles Draps
‘Oxtail Giouvetsi, Bone Marrow, Beef Fat Pangrattato’ at OMA. © Gilles Draps
Hero & Thumbnail Images: © OMA/Gilles Draps
