大牌檔

聽着老廣東歌走過港島北岸海濱長廊,忽發奇想要吃大牌檔來完成這段本地遊經歷,家住香港但大部分時間都花在大學醫院和相熟餐廳,難得能享受一下香港情懷。

身在西灣河,想不到往哪裏找大牌檔,只知道赤柱正街有「泗益」和「民益」,中學寄宿日子在那裏吃了不少魚蛋粉,現今若有機會回母校聖士提反書院也定必幫襯,尤其是「泗益」那西多士已是網紅名物。

另一大牌檔便是中環士丹利街的「陳泗記」,這路程較合理,反正早已過了午餐時間。招呼醫生的「伙計」完全不像「伙計」,穿緊身運動衣,一身橫練肌肉顯而易見,一星期不去Gym兩三次難有這般效果。醫生問咖啡好還是奶茶好?他便老實地說兩樣都好。見到鄰桌兩位都點蛋牛治,醫生也不甘後人。咖啡是地道大牌檔風味,香港到處咖啡店,找杯靚咖啡不難,但要找經典大牌檔咖啡就不易,再加上熱啡很熱,便知檔主付上心機。蛋牛治近兩吋厚(圖),鹹牛肉也是老味道。若閉上眼睛,醫生彷彿沉浸在七十年代的感覺中。

有人將大牌檔寫成「大排檔」,實則應是「大牌檔」,自一九二一年政府發牌照給流動小販為「小牌」,固定小販為「大牌」,五十年代有牌熟食檔要把這「大牌」放在當眼地方,名字由此而來。但七十年代開始政府因衞生和市容問題不再發牌,持牌人過世後也不能直接傳給後人,從此大牌檔式微,現今全港只有十七個持牌大牌檔,但來港探索的遊客,追尋的就是這份味道與情懷。

陳泗記,加油!香港需要更多用心做美食的大牌檔。

(專欄作家提供)

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