Creative food pairings in friendly community environs may be the way to introduce smaller, more obscure wineries to Hong Kong’s on-trade, argues Rebecca Lo.
Hong Kong is known as a test market for good reason. Its East meets West reputation means that global start-ups eyeing China — or Chinese entrepreneurs with global ambitions — both have a platform. Its role as a test market is most apparent with the wine industry; the city’s mature consumers, plethora of F&B outlets and thirst for what’s new and next pave the way for emerging or obscure wineries to reach discerning drinkers.
On a sunny Wednesday afternoon, chef and owner Jeremy Evrard raced around his Roucou Cheese Omakase & Bar as he prepared to host two consecutive omakase dinners for leading influencers.
Evrard opened Roucou in March 2025, following stints in Tokyo, Macau and Hong Kong, and works with beverage supplier Vinosophy on its wine offering. Evrard and Vinosophy founder and director Pierre Legrandois share a long history, starting in 2010 when the former propelled Caprice in Four Seasons Hong Kong to three Michelin stars.
During the pandemic Legrandois temporarily relocated back to France, visiting small wineries to hear their stories first hand. The Frenchman now spends roughly six months of the year there to continue getting to know young and upcoming winemakers throughout the country.
His first-hand research has since dominated the wine list at Roucou.
“The wines I gravitate towards are family-owned, artisanal and produce less than 20,000 bottles annually,” Legrandois said. “More and more, these houses are run by the next generation taking over an established business. Though they want to do things their own way, they demonstrate commitment to working their vineyards.”
As a result, smaller French wineries are yielding more drinkable, less tannic wines perfect for pairing with Evrard’s inventive cheese-based cuisine. “All the wine on Roucou’s list needs to be drinkable now,” Legrandois said. As he put it: “A good bottle is an empty bottle.”
Evrard agreed. “The Agnes Paquet Bourgourne Aligoté 2023, which we sell by the glass for HK$108 (£10.17), works well with our food menu. Unlike other Aligotés which can be sharp, this one offers good energy at an affordable price — it is a pleasure to drink,” he said.
Evrard’s approach to pairings is relaxed. “I’m not about pairing one wine with one dish,” he shrugged. “It’s about joy before technique. Our menus are designed to go off in different directions and still be right.”
The French duo at Roucou aren’t the only ones bringing lesser-known wineries and regions to the fore.
Further west, Crushed Wine Bar is already packed by 5:30pm, co-founder Leigh-Ann Luckett presiding over the bar like a mother hen to ensure customers are poured exactly what they want to drink.
Originally from South Africa, Luckett fell in love with wine through Cape Town’s tasting rooms where she met local winemakers. She settled in Hong Kong, worked at Kedington Wines and Madison Auction, and eventually discovered her preference for the style of small wineries.
Crushed began as an online retailer during initial pandemic-induced closures, following with a bricks and mortar shop. In August 2023, Crushed relocated to a two-storey space and became Sai Ying Pun’s neighbourhood wine bar.
Luckett views her role as narrator and curator rather than sommelier; Crushed’s wine list followed suit, with quirky, highly personal labels such as Ltd. + Old Vine Pinot Gris. Comfort food steeped in nostalgia such as Brut’s mac and cheese with Roquefort or prawn cocktail anchor customers’ wine journeys.
“Our programme is by the glass and flights,” she said. “We intentionally do not put a region, grade or traditional tasting notes on our menu. By leaning into the whimsy and family aspects of wine, we remove misconceptions. Guests feel safer without the need to navigate unfamiliar words.”
Luckett sources wines from a vast network built throughout the years mainly from South Africa, Italy and the US. “We support fair practice and biodiversity,” she stated. “The trend lately is towards lighter wines such as orange or skin contact: huge in a culture dominated by red. Hong Kong people tend to be open to learning more about what they consume; we are grateful we can share our producers’ stories.”
Evrard feels that “as a neighbourhood wine bar, we are about value for money. We want to present the best of our crafts — in wine and in food — to gain the community’s trust with reliable quality products and services.”
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